Review The The Panerai Luminor Due 38 Watch Replica

Panerai has a reputation for being the OG oversized watch. The Italian-born watchmaker, which manufactures in Switzerland, started a trend that began on the wrist of Sly Stallone in the 1990s and became a legitimate force in style by the early aughts. But more recent times have witnessed a reaction in the other direction – a shift toward smaller, less obtrusive wristwatches.

Panerai is still making plenty unabashedly oversized watches, with several coming in at 44 to 47 mm (and wearing even larger thanks to their cushion case shape and frequent use of large crown protectors). This kind of watchmaking is, if you’ll pardon the cliche, a part of Panerai's watchmaking DNA.

This year in Geneva, we were treated to an evolution of the Luminor Due that comes as a 38mm automatic watch, and which is the smallest Panerai to date. When I wrote about it from Geneva earlier this year, I knew that I would want to take this one for a spin should the opportunity present itself, which just so happened to be the case this spring.  When my test watch arrived, it came on a black alligator strap that was a hair too short for my 7-inch wrist, so I promptly put it on the green leather strap you here, which matched wonderfully with the green lume markers and numbers.

Just The Facts

The Panerai Luminor Due 38replica watch is a smaller version of the classic Luminor style case and dial that most folks think of when they hear the name Panerai. There is the cushion shape of the case, the prominent lugs, the raised bezel, and most importantly, the crown guard – a registered trademark of Panerai. Opening the crown guard gives you access to the crown, with which you can manually wind the movement inside as well as set the time and date.

This is in fact a brand new movement, the OPXXXIV, which is known as the caliber BM12-1975A when used by Baume & Mercier in its Clifton Baumatic. It’s hard to know at this very early stage how this movement will perform in the long run, but early reports of the Baumatic have been quite positive. It should be noted, however, that when Panerai uses this new caliber, which has been developed at the group level by Richemont, they opt for a conventional Nivarox hairspring rather than using, as Baume & Mercier does, one made from silicon. The Panerai version also has three days of power reserve, in contrast to the Baumatic’s five. There are two stainless steel options available: the sunray finished dark grey you see here and a white-dialed variation. There is also a rose gold version with a see-through back, which allows one to see how Panerai has taken a movement designed at the group level and finished it to look like a Panerai caliber.

The grey dialed version has a traditional sandwich type of dial – a welcome attribute that doesn’t come with certain entry-level Panerais such as the Luminor Base Logo. One thing you’ll notice if you turn this watch over is that its closed caseback has the look of being screwed in, but it’s not. This watch, like the two larger Luminor Due size watches, has a water resistance of just 30 meters. This less-than-diveworthy depth rating continues to be a point of criticism that some watch enthusiasts and reviewers have had with the Luminor Due.

Things To Consider

Now that we've covered what this watch is and what it isn't, it's perhaps useful to come back and talk once more about who this watch is for. Unequivocally, this watch is not for divers. But then, of all the modern watches that Panerai makes, only the Submersible, in its various permutations, meets the basic standards of a modern day dive watch. This watch is also not for swimmers and those looking for a watch that can survive a dip at the beach or the pool. When you survey the landscape of watches rated to 30 meters, what you are most likely to encounter are dress watches, various chronographs, and other models outfitted with complications that require pushers and pin adjusted functions. What this watch in fact is seems to be the realization of Panerai as the fashion icon that it first became, almost by accident, with the initial help of Sly Stallone. People have been dressing Panerais up and down in various contexts for decades now. And one of those contexts has been under a shirtsleeve with a jacket and tie. This is probably the first Panerai that I would confidently wear that way, and I would feel equally comfortable taking it to the beach, even if I wouldn't dare swim with it.

While I think it's a smart move that Panerai has chosen not to pigeon-hole its Luminor Due 38 as ladies' piece, one can't help but expect that this will also be an olive branch to female watch buyers who have thought about Panerai but found its offerings too big. It looked nice on my 7-inch wrist, but when I handed it to my fiancée at dinner and invited her to try it on, it looked fantastic on her considerably slimmer wrist.

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