SIHH 2019: Une Foule De Nouvelles Montres De Pilotes IWC

No contento con dejar que uno o dos relojes se salgan antes de que SIHH haya abierto sus grandes puertas color beige, IWC ha publicado detalles de cuatro nuevos relojes de piloto. La aviación será el tema de sus nuevos lanzamientos este enero, mientras que normalmente se enfoca en una de sus familias, el año pasado se desvió del patrón para celebrar su 150 aniversario.

Aquí tenemos nuevas piezas que representan cada estilo diferente del reloj piloto de IWC (vale la pena recordar que, a pesar de que los relojes en sí son bastante accesibles, la familia IWC Polots replica reloj es una de las más abarrotadas y confusas, con la serie MK XVIII, Pilot's, Big Pilot, Spitfire, Antoine de Saint Exupery, Le Petit Prince, Top Gun y Top Gun Miramar, todos representando diferentes subfamilias). Aún así, si estos son los actos de calentamiento, es justo decir que estamos emocionados por el evento principal.

En primer lugar, echemos un vistazo a la edición de Spitfire del reloj Timezoner Spitfire del piloto "El vuelo más largo". El Timezoner (una palabra que aún nos parece y nos parece ajena, pero que denota una versión bastante interesante de la complicación de la hora mundial) se lanzó por primera vez en 2016. Ahora se vuelve a unir en colores de "herencia", como un empate. con el patrocinio de IWC de un vuelo alrededor del mundo que tendrá lugar este verano, que informamos aquí.

El gran cambio en el Timezoner es la pérdida de un cronógrafo. Junto con el rediseño de la pantalla para mostrar la segunda zona horaria de 24 horas en una ventana curva en lugar de una manecilla GMT, esto ha hecho que el reloj sea más delgado (de 16.8 mm a 15.2 mm) y más fácil de conectar. Para lo que sigue siendo un concepto relativamente complejo, esta es una ayuda real, y creo que representa una gran mejora. La luz envejecida, las salpicaduras de rojo y la correa de lona verde también están mucho más de moda.

Siguiendo con la colección Spitfire, la segunda nueva pieza de IWC es un cronógrafo de reloj de bronce con una esfera verde oliva. Esto fue algo obvio en términos de ponerse al día con el amor general por el bronce, pero en realidad no es la mejor noticia: el reloj es el primer crono de Pilot en usar el calibre de 69000 familias de la IWC (referencia 69380 aquí, lo que denota la adición de un día-fecha al 69370) que hizo su debut en las actualizaciones de Ingenieur 2016.

Lo mejor de todo es que este nuevo modelo es 2 mm más pequeño que el reloj cronógrafo Pilot's Watch existente, de 41 mm contra 43 mm, que funciona con el calibre 79320 derivado de 7750. Eso debería marcar la diferencia en la forma en que se lleva, aunque sigue teniendo un grosor de 15,3 mm (el anterior 15,5 mm), así que no espere que se sienta súbitamente delgado.

Ahora pasamos a los márgenes exteriores de la gama: primero, con el IQC Pilot's Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium (en serio, ¿los tipos que los nombran están pagados con la letra?).

Esta es otra pequeña noticia para la marca, ya que trae la fusión "cerana" de titanio y propiedad de IWC por primera vez a la familia Pilot (fue utilizada en el Aquatimer por primera vez en 2016). Para asegurarse de estar al tanto de las especificaciones de sus operaciones especiales, que combina la ligereza del titanio con la resistencia a los rayones de la cerámica, IWC ha hecho de este el primer reloj de Pilot en usar negro sobre negro sobre negro. No hay nuevo movimiento aquí; Este es un rattrapante y por lo tanto todavía usa el 79230, y el reloj mide 44 mm de ancho.

Por último, llegamos a la edición de Tourbillon de gran potencia del Gran Piloto "Le Petit Prince", sobre la cual estamos informados de manera confiable que es el primer reloj de Pilot de IWC (y probablemente de cualquier otro), suena como el tipo de cosas que Zenith habría hecho cinco. Hace años, pero a nuestro entender no sucedió) para alojar un tourbillon de fuerza constante. No se moleste en preguntar por qué es una yuxtaposición sensata y disfrute de la alta gama de relojería que se ofrece.

El movimiento

Este movimiento (IWC calibre 94805) hizo su debut el año pasado en la colección del 150 aniversario, cuando IWC lanzó a dos portugueses con él. Es un calibre de tourbillon de fuerza constante, que utiliza un mecanismo de cadena y fusée para medir la energía de la fuente principal de manera consistente. nivel de torque. Al igual que un tourbillon, su principio fundamental es la mejora del cronometraje, y como un tourbillon, que está relativamente lejos de su atractivo moderno: esta es una pieza de espectáculo que mantiene la presencia de IWC a un nivel de relojería bastante aparte de sus colecciones principales.

Otra nota sobre este reloj: usa algo que IWC está llamando "Hard Gold" para su estuche. La composición química no se ha revelado, pero IWC lo describe como una modificación de la estructura de la aleación que ofrece 5-10 veces el nivel de resistencia al rayado del oro rojo normal. Suena similar, aunque no tan logrado como, el oro mágico de Hublot, que supuestamente es completamente resistente a los arañazos, excepto los diamantes. Descubriremos más de IWC y los mantendremos informados.

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The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph

The acid-lime accents and groovy dial texture of the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon replica watch bring to mind TAG’s inaugural adventures with Aston Martin last year, but the openworked hexagon motif is for good reason: it’s the molecular arrangement of pure carbon atoms, in both of the crystalline forms that make up the spring’s composite. Namely, cylindrical ‘nanotubes’ and their unrolled, sheet-form ‘graphene’ allotrope.

Graphene, you may remember, was 2017’s muse for Richard Mille, given its automotive partnership with McLaren and their own connection to the University of Manchester’s Nobel-Prize-winning carbon boffins. But more interestingly in this case, it’s that year’s other haute-tech headliner, Zenith and its Defy 21 that’s a more salient comparison.

Since LVMH chief Jean-Claude Biver’s recent departure from daily operations, it appears his swansong legacy has been the establishment of ongoing R&D cross-fertilisation between the Zenith and TAG stablemates. With ex-French Air Force test pilot-cum-physics professor Guy Semon at the scientific sharp end, Zenith first benefitted from TAG’s 2009 ‘Haute Horlogerie’ endeavour by reviving and re-appropriating its high-frequency, dual-powertrain ‘Mikrograph’ chronograph for 2017’s El Primero.

The resulting Defy 21 was not only remarkable for its pricepoint but also its bizarrely unheralded carbon-hairspring technology, present in both the 5Hz timekeeping and 50Hz timing escapements. And now, it’s clear why: Zenith was to repay TAG for its 50Hz favour with proven, properly hype-able carbon componentry.

Like silicon parts, Zenith’s carbon hairsprings are made with a photolithography process, but one that grows the parts on a silicon wafer, rather than etching them from one. A complex series of chemical and gaseous baths and reactions grow the composite at a molecular level to give it outstanding flex characteristics.

LVMH could neither confirm or deny direct comparisons between the two brands’ springs and respective manufacturing processes, but suffice to say it’s a path worth following, as TAG’s establishment of an in-house carbon-composite balance-spring manufactory at La Chaux-de-Fonds – announced at the same time as the Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph – implies.

And for good reasons too – much in the same vein as silicon, only… well, better. For a start, a lightweight, low-density carbon hairspring is virtually unaffected by gravity and shock. In TAG Heuer’s lab, watches were tested up to 5,000G (in reality, a 1m fall down onto a hard surface) where metal hairsprings bent and silicon hairsprings broke, while the carbon composite hairspring remained completely intact.

Like silicon, carbon springs give you antimagnetism, perfectly concentric oscillation and come with the ‘collet’ axis attachment integrated into the mon-structure. But it’s the toughness of crystalline carbon that’s the main draw over silicon – still avoided by purist watchmakers for its brittleness. And given TAG Heuer is a sporting watchmaker this makes carbon balance-assemblies a particularly sensible way forward.

Update – Having spoken to TAG Heuer’s newly-appointed Product Director Guy Bove, the implication is that having invested in the technology over the last four years, there are few serious barriers to this eventually being rolled out across much of TAG Heuer’s range. Expect this story to develop over the course of this year!

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Buy Cheap Replica Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti Watch

I’m entirely conscious of this Hublot x Berluti piece will be a rather polarising watch. A bold creation, getting a particular uniqueness plus a very unusual refinement it had not been to everyone’s liking, as they are frequently the problem with Hublot, having a couple of calling it irrelevant. Somewhat this can be positive. No less than, it proves that Hublot dares and doesn’t create conservative objects to thrill everybody. Personally, I loved it and discovered it justified and well performed.  Carrying out a 3-hands type of Baselworld 2016, Hublot boosts the collection this year with another limited edition (similar to timepieces created through the brand…) employing the same leather dial, the identical color plan but adding a chronograph function for the package, allowing the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti replica watch.

Basically, the recipe is similar: two watches, one inch black ceramic, one inch 18K King Gold, one with black leather, one with brown leather. The main attraction of individuals watches are extremely their dials. Partnering in what may be one of the top 5 shoemakers in the world, using most likely probably the most precious leathers as well as the finest patinas, it will likely be a waste to merely use Berluti to produce straps. Because of this this unusual materials will also be useful for the dials. Indexes and logos are embossed round the material, which shows lively colors. Using leather for just about any dial is extremely challenging, due to the impact of UVs, light and water, raising queries about aging. For instance, all of the moisture must be removed the material before it might be enclosed inside the situation. Additionally, a specific treatment was applied so that you can ensure the leather doesn’t age too rapidly.

Two colors will probably be available, both while using 45mm Classic Fusion Chronograph situation. The initial edition, the Scritto An Exciting-black Costume, features a black ceramic situation, with polished and brushed surfaces, matched getting a black “engraved” strap plus a black leather dial. The second edition, the Scritto King Gold, will come in a warm gold situation, concentrating on the same polished and brushed surfaces, and coupled with a warm tobacco brown strap and leather dial (the signature hue of Berluti). Both share the identical display, getting a bi-counter chronograph - small second at 3 and 30-minute counter at 9, without date. They are run by the calibre HUB1143, a mechanical chronograph movement with 4Hz frequency and 42h power reserve - a modular movement based on an ETA calibre.

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti

Both editions in the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti will probably be limited to 250 pieces. They've hands-crafted straps mixing rubber and Berluti leather and so are presented in the Berluti bespoke box which contains a whole Berluti leather care set.

Technical Specifications - Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti

    Situation: 45mm diameter x 13.40mm thickness - black ceramic or 18K King Gold - Azure very on sides - 50m water-resistant

    Movement: HUB1143 (ETA base) - automatic - 4Hz frequency - 42h power reserve - 280 parts (59 jewels) - hrs, minutes, small second, chronograph

    Strap: rubber with Berluti leather on folding clasp

    Limited edition of 250 pieces, for editions

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph Replica Watch

New for 2019, and unveiled during the Geneva Watch Fair, TAG Heuer releases a new model utilizing its proud in-house 02-T manufacture tourbillon movement. The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon replica watch Nanograph features some unique innovation to the movement, bringing a carbon composite hairspring to replace the Elinvar or silicon versions previously utilized.

Specifications

Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph
Dimensions: 45mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Case Material: PVD coated titanum with carbon composite bezel
Crystal/Lens: Sapphire
Movement: Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon
Frequency: 4-Hz
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber belly with calfskin top leather

Analysis

The 02T movement has arguably been groundbreaking in the idea that it brings a high quality tourbillon into a (more) affordable realm. We saw the movement first emerge a few years ago and reviewed the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T Tourbillon Chronograph here – and we were shocked by the sub-$20,000 price tag. The model was successful to say the least, and I can’t argue with that considering the price for a tourbillon from a major brand is less than some all-steel sports watches without any real groundbreaking features.

Since taking over the LVMH watchmaking division late last year, Stéphane Bianchi’s first major release is this guy, and it’s certainly unique. Carbon is everywhere nowadays, but its utilization for the heartbeat of a watch is a curious one. It’s lightweight, as well as largely resistant to magnetism and shock – claiming a better alternative to “fragile alloy or silicone” hairsprings of previous iterations.

As for the aesthetics, the Nanograph utilizes a hexagon pattern on the dial and rotor – making me want to nickname it the “honeycomb,” paired with its yellow accents. The watch itself is mostly monochromatic, which is a unique choice considering the skeletonized-ish multi-level nature of the watch with its busy dial-pattern. While it appears that the chronograph hands have a yellow-tipped hand, the hour and minute hands do not. I’ll reserve my legibility comments for when we get to go hands on at a later date, but I feel that overall this watch has a cool aesthetic and am excited for the technical advancements to a movement I was already excited about.

Conclusion

TAG has definitely gone through some extensive testing according to their press releases, so maybe we are seeing some major steps forward on an already affordable and popular movement. This is apparently a stepping stone for further developments. Guy Simon, Product Director for the brand says, “the carbon-composite hairspring is a first step that will lead us to yet more in-house improvements still in the process of being developed.” That sounds exciting to me.

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Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 Replica Reloj

Aquí está ... El más grande para Rolex este año, el que celebra el 50 aniversario de la modelo, el nuevo Sea-Dweller Single Red. Más de lo esperado para ser lanzado, Rolex en realidad nos sorprende con un reloj con una referencia de época. Inusual ... Pero, de hecho, además de esta línea roja, hay mucho más que ver en este nuevo Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 replica reloj.

Lo primero es lo primero, Rolex celebra el 50 aniversario de Sea-Dweller, un reloj lanzado como herramienta profesional en 1967, y el primer reloj comercializado con una válvula de escape de helio. Por una vez, Rolex incluye una referencia de época en uno de sus modelos, claramente no es lo que esperábamos, sino exactamente lo que los coleccionistas estaban esperando: un "marinero rojo". De hecho, el nombre del reloj, como en los viejos tiempos, está impreso en ese color rojo brillante que la mayoría de los coleccionistas vintage elogiaron. Sin embargo, además de eso, este nuevo Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 tiene mucho más que ofrecer.

El caso

El caso aquí evoluciona. No está en el material (acero inoxidable 904L), no está en forma (aún es el aspecto tradicional e icónico del reloj de buceo Rolex) sino en tamaño. The Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. De hecho, 126600 mide 43 mm, lo que significa que ha crecido en 3 mm, en comparación con la anterior Sea-Dwelelr 4000 ref. 116600 introducido en 2014, que ya no aparece en el sitio web de Rolex. Para el resto, la válvula de escape de helio se encuentra en el lugar correcto y también el bisel de cerámica, con una escala totalmente graduada de 60 minutos. El Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 es aún resistente al agua hasta 4000ft / 1220m. Cuenta con una pulsera de ostras con cierre de seguridad Oysterlock y extensión de buzo.

En cuanto a las evoluciones, también observamos la aparición de un cíclope en la esfera, algo bastante sorprendente, ya que el modelo nunca se ajustó antes. Muy Rolex en el aspecto, este cíclope seguramente complacerá a los coleccionistas modernos, tal vez a los apasionados de la vendimia. Será una cuestión de perspectiva. Las manecillas y los marcadores son iguales al modelo anterior, por supuesto agrandados para adaptarse al nuevo diámetro de 43 mm. Todos están recubiertos con el material luminiscente de Chromalight azul habitual.

Por último, pero no menos importante, el 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 ahora cuenta con la última generación de movimientos de Rolex, el Calibre 3235, con la reserva de potencia de 70 h, la espiral de Parachrom Chronergy escape azul, el barril de alta capacidad, el tren de engranajes eficiente y el nuevo módulo de cuerda automática. El diseño y el acabado del movimiento también se han mejorado mucho en comparación con la serie 31xx anterior.

El precio

El 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 estará disponible a CHF 10,800. Más adelante, cuando tengamos las manos en el reloj.

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Introducing The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Replica Watch

 

Quick Take

This is an usual watch with a very specific purpose. Created in partnership with Dustin Johnson, the number one ranked golfer in the world, the Big Bang Unico Golf has a newly-developed complication that allows the wearer to keep score of his or her golf game on the fly. On the right side of the 45mm case are two buttons – one adds a stroke to the player's score, while the second advances the game one hole. Down at six o'clock, a running total of the player's 18-hole score is kept with a pair of discs. At eight o'clock is a tee-shaped pusher that resets the whole thing back to zero.

Why This Watch Matters

Sure, this isn't the most practical complication for everyday wear, but there's more to this watch than just that. The case might be large in dimensions – 45mm x 18.01mm – but it's extremely lightweight at just 98 grams because it is made of Texalium, a composite of fiberglass and aluminum, and carbon fiber. The screws are titanium, finishing things off true to form. You can also get a good look at the movement and how it works, as the entire thing is skeletonized.http://www.prowatches.co/hublot-big-bang-c-29_30.html

Initial Thoughts

If I'm being honest, this definitely isn't a watch for me. Between its rather beefy profile and its very specific use for scoring a sport that I do not play, I don't think I'll be strapping one on anytime soon. However, I do think we can learn something from this watch: It's a non-traditional, outside-the-box way of thinking about what a mechanical wristwatch can be, and it's one that is both seriously engineered and not-too-serious in its approach. Those are all things I can definitely get behind.

The Basics

Brand: Hublot
Model: Big Bang Unico Golf
Reference Number: 416.YS.1120.VR

Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 18.1mm
Weight: 98 grams
Case Material: Carbon fiber and Texalium
Dial Color: Matte black
Indexes: Rhodium-plated hour markers
Lume: Yes, hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black rubber strap with white calf leather and black velcro strap

The Movement

Caliber: In-House MHUB 1580 (With UNICO base)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and special golf score complication
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 43
Total Components: 358

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Introducing The Panerai Submersible Carbotech Replica Watch

 

Quick Take

This year Panerai seems to be doubling down on its Submersible line, the toughest, most no-nonsense watches in its collection. The models you see here are classic Submersibles in profile, but they're rendered in Carbotech, a proprietary material based on carbon fiber that Panerai has been using since 2015. There are two models, one 47mm version and one 42mm version, and while the two have different dimensions and different movements inside (the larger model features an in-house caliber while the smaller features a ValFleurier-based movement), the two share the same sleek looks. The matte black Carbotech case is complemented by bright blue accents found in the dial markers, dial printing, and bezel markers, and a blacked-out titanium caseback completes the package. Despite looking all blue in daylight, when seen in the dark the bezel pearl and minute hand actually glow green to make timing dives even easier.http://www.watchesming.co/panerai-replica-c-41.html

Initial Thoughts

Panerai is a brand in a unique position: its product portfolio is, and always has been, based around a relatively strict set of design codes and purpose-driven features. In some ways, this makes it difficult for Panerai to do things that look and feel "new" to those who aren't connoisseurs obsessed with minutiae. In other ways though, this is a serious advantage: there's a lot less whiz-bang nonsense that feels like it's being done just to get attention and a lot more focus on refining things over time and making interesting products that offer new interpretations on classic ideas. These watches do just that, taking a modern-classic Panerai silhouette and giving it a totally new life though innovative materials and a clean, cool color scheme. Personally, I'm into it.

One thing to note: this is not the first Submersible to be made of Carbotech. In 2015 Panerai introduced a Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech (PAM 616) that still appears to be part of the brand's current collection. It has a very different look from these new models, with tan accents throughout and a more traditional Panerai-style dial. Whether or not the 616 will be cycled out in favor of these new models is yet to be seen.

The Basics

Brand: Panerai
Model: Submersible Carbotech
Reference Number: PAM01616 (47mm), PAM00960 (42mm)

Diameter: 47mm or 42mm
Case Material: Carbotech case and crown protector, titanium caseback with black coating
Dial Color: Black
Indexes: Dots and batons
Lume: Yes, on markers, hands, and bezel dot
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black caoutchouc strap with brushed DLC titanium buckle

The Movement (47mm Version)

Caliber: In-House P. 9010
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Diameter: 38.7mm
Thickness: 6mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 31

The Movement (42mm Version)

Caliber: OP XXXIV (based on ValFleurier ébauche)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 4.2mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 25

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