SIHH 2019: Une Foule De Nouvelles Montres De Pilotes IWC

No contento con dejar que uno o dos relojes se salgan antes de que SIHH haya abierto sus grandes puertas color beige, IWC ha publicado detalles de cuatro nuevos relojes de piloto. La aviación será el tema de sus nuevos lanzamientos este enero, mientras que normalmente se enfoca en una de sus familias, el año pasado se desvió del patrón para celebrar su 150 aniversario.

Aquí tenemos nuevas piezas que representan cada estilo diferente del reloj piloto de IWC (vale la pena recordar que, a pesar de que los relojes en sí son bastante accesibles, la familia IWC Polots replica reloj es una de las más abarrotadas y confusas, con la serie MK XVIII, Pilot's, Big Pilot, Spitfire, Antoine de Saint Exupery, Le Petit Prince, Top Gun y Top Gun Miramar, todos representando diferentes subfamilias). Aún así, si estos son los actos de calentamiento, es justo decir que estamos emocionados por el evento principal.

En primer lugar, echemos un vistazo a la edición de Spitfire del reloj Timezoner Spitfire del piloto "El vuelo más largo". El Timezoner (una palabra que aún nos parece y nos parece ajena, pero que denota una versión bastante interesante de la complicación de la hora mundial) se lanzó por primera vez en 2016. Ahora se vuelve a unir en colores de "herencia", como un empate. con el patrocinio de IWC de un vuelo alrededor del mundo que tendrá lugar este verano, que informamos aquí.

El gran cambio en el Timezoner es la pérdida de un cronógrafo. Junto con el rediseño de la pantalla para mostrar la segunda zona horaria de 24 horas en una ventana curva en lugar de una manecilla GMT, esto ha hecho que el reloj sea más delgado (de 16.8 mm a 15.2 mm) y más fácil de conectar. Para lo que sigue siendo un concepto relativamente complejo, esta es una ayuda real, y creo que representa una gran mejora. La luz envejecida, las salpicaduras de rojo y la correa de lona verde también están mucho más de moda.

Siguiendo con la colección Spitfire, la segunda nueva pieza de IWC es un cronógrafo de reloj de bronce con una esfera verde oliva. Esto fue algo obvio en términos de ponerse al día con el amor general por el bronce, pero en realidad no es la mejor noticia: el reloj es el primer crono de Pilot en usar el calibre de 69000 familias de la IWC (referencia 69380 aquí, lo que denota la adición de un día-fecha al 69370) que hizo su debut en las actualizaciones de Ingenieur 2016.

Lo mejor de todo es que este nuevo modelo es 2 mm más pequeño que el reloj cronógrafo Pilot's Watch existente, de 41 mm contra 43 mm, que funciona con el calibre 79320 derivado de 7750. Eso debería marcar la diferencia en la forma en que se lleva, aunque sigue teniendo un grosor de 15,3 mm (el anterior 15,5 mm), así que no espere que se sienta súbitamente delgado.

Ahora pasamos a los márgenes exteriores de la gama: primero, con el IQC Pilot's Watch Double Chronograph Top Gun Ceratanium (en serio, ¿los tipos que los nombran están pagados con la letra?).

Esta es otra pequeña noticia para la marca, ya que trae la fusión "cerana" de titanio y propiedad de IWC por primera vez a la familia Pilot (fue utilizada en el Aquatimer por primera vez en 2016). Para asegurarse de estar al tanto de las especificaciones de sus operaciones especiales, que combina la ligereza del titanio con la resistencia a los rayones de la cerámica, IWC ha hecho de este el primer reloj de Pilot en usar negro sobre negro sobre negro. No hay nuevo movimiento aquí; Este es un rattrapante y por lo tanto todavía usa el 79230, y el reloj mide 44 mm de ancho.

Por último, llegamos a la edición de Tourbillon de gran potencia del Gran Piloto "Le Petit Prince", sobre la cual estamos informados de manera confiable que es el primer reloj de Pilot de IWC (y probablemente de cualquier otro), suena como el tipo de cosas que Zenith habría hecho cinco. Hace años, pero a nuestro entender no sucedió) para alojar un tourbillon de fuerza constante. No se moleste en preguntar por qué es una yuxtaposición sensata y disfrute de la alta gama de relojería que se ofrece.

El movimiento

Este movimiento (IWC calibre 94805) hizo su debut el año pasado en la colección del 150 aniversario, cuando IWC lanzó a dos portugueses con él. Es un calibre de tourbillon de fuerza constante, que utiliza un mecanismo de cadena y fusée para medir la energía de la fuente principal de manera consistente. nivel de torque. Al igual que un tourbillon, su principio fundamental es la mejora del cronometraje, y como un tourbillon, que está relativamente lejos de su atractivo moderno: esta es una pieza de espectáculo que mantiene la presencia de IWC a un nivel de relojería bastante aparte de sus colecciones principales.

Otra nota sobre este reloj: usa algo que IWC está llamando "Hard Gold" para su estuche. La composición química no se ha revelado, pero IWC lo describe como una modificación de la estructura de la aleación que ofrece 5-10 veces el nivel de resistencia al rayado del oro rojo normal. Suena similar, aunque no tan logrado como, el oro mágico de Hublot, que supuestamente es completamente resistente a los arañazos, excepto los diamantes. Descubriremos más de IWC y los mantendremos informados.

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The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph

The acid-lime accents and groovy dial texture of the TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon replica watch bring to mind TAG’s inaugural adventures with Aston Martin last year, but the openworked hexagon motif is for good reason: it’s the molecular arrangement of pure carbon atoms, in both of the crystalline forms that make up the spring’s composite. Namely, cylindrical ‘nanotubes’ and their unrolled, sheet-form ‘graphene’ allotrope.

Graphene, you may remember, was 2017’s muse for Richard Mille, given its automotive partnership with McLaren and their own connection to the University of Manchester’s Nobel-Prize-winning carbon boffins. But more interestingly in this case, it’s that year’s other haute-tech headliner, Zenith and its Defy 21 that’s a more salient comparison.

Since LVMH chief Jean-Claude Biver’s recent departure from daily operations, it appears his swansong legacy has been the establishment of ongoing R&D cross-fertilisation between the Zenith and TAG stablemates. With ex-French Air Force test pilot-cum-physics professor Guy Semon at the scientific sharp end, Zenith first benefitted from TAG’s 2009 ‘Haute Horlogerie’ endeavour by reviving and re-appropriating its high-frequency, dual-powertrain ‘Mikrograph’ chronograph for 2017’s El Primero.

The resulting Defy 21 was not only remarkable for its pricepoint but also its bizarrely unheralded carbon-hairspring technology, present in both the 5Hz timekeeping and 50Hz timing escapements. And now, it’s clear why: Zenith was to repay TAG for its 50Hz favour with proven, properly hype-able carbon componentry.

Like silicon parts, Zenith’s carbon hairsprings are made with a photolithography process, but one that grows the parts on a silicon wafer, rather than etching them from one. A complex series of chemical and gaseous baths and reactions grow the composite at a molecular level to give it outstanding flex characteristics.

LVMH could neither confirm or deny direct comparisons between the two brands’ springs and respective manufacturing processes, but suffice to say it’s a path worth following, as TAG’s establishment of an in-house carbon-composite balance-spring manufactory at La Chaux-de-Fonds – announced at the same time as the Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph – implies.

And for good reasons too – much in the same vein as silicon, only… well, better. For a start, a lightweight, low-density carbon hairspring is virtually unaffected by gravity and shock. In TAG Heuer’s lab, watches were tested up to 5,000G (in reality, a 1m fall down onto a hard surface) where metal hairsprings bent and silicon hairsprings broke, while the carbon composite hairspring remained completely intact.

Like silicon, carbon springs give you antimagnetism, perfectly concentric oscillation and come with the ‘collet’ axis attachment integrated into the mon-structure. But it’s the toughness of crystalline carbon that’s the main draw over silicon – still avoided by purist watchmakers for its brittleness. And given TAG Heuer is a sporting watchmaker this makes carbon balance-assemblies a particularly sensible way forward.

Update – Having spoken to TAG Heuer’s newly-appointed Product Director Guy Bove, the implication is that having invested in the technology over the last four years, there are few serious barriers to this eventually being rolled out across much of TAG Heuer’s range. Expect this story to develop over the course of this year!

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Buy Cheap Replica Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti Watch

I’m entirely conscious of this Hublot x Berluti piece will be a rather polarising watch. A bold creation, getting a particular uniqueness plus a very unusual refinement it had not been to everyone’s liking, as they are frequently the problem with Hublot, having a couple of calling it irrelevant. Somewhat this can be positive. No less than, it proves that Hublot dares and doesn’t create conservative objects to thrill everybody. Personally, I loved it and discovered it justified and well performed.  Carrying out a 3-hands type of Baselworld 2016, Hublot boosts the collection this year with another limited edition (similar to timepieces created through the brand…) employing the same leather dial, the identical color plan but adding a chronograph function for the package, allowing the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti replica watch.

Basically, the recipe is similar: two watches, one inch black ceramic, one inch 18K King Gold, one with black leather, one with brown leather. The main attraction of individuals watches are extremely their dials. Partnering in what may be one of the top 5 shoemakers in the world, using most likely probably the most precious leathers as well as the finest patinas, it will likely be a waste to merely use Berluti to produce straps. Because of this this unusual materials will also be useful for the dials. Indexes and logos are embossed round the material, which shows lively colors. Using leather for just about any dial is extremely challenging, due to the impact of UVs, light and water, raising queries about aging. For instance, all of the moisture must be removed the material before it might be enclosed inside the situation. Additionally, a specific treatment was applied so that you can ensure the leather doesn’t age too rapidly.

Two colors will probably be available, both while using 45mm Classic Fusion Chronograph situation. The initial edition, the Scritto An Exciting-black Costume, features a black ceramic situation, with polished and brushed surfaces, matched getting a black “engraved” strap plus a black leather dial. The second edition, the Scritto King Gold, will come in a warm gold situation, concentrating on the same polished and brushed surfaces, and coupled with a warm tobacco brown strap and leather dial (the signature hue of Berluti). Both share the identical display, getting a bi-counter chronograph - small second at 3 and 30-minute counter at 9, without date. They are run by the calibre HUB1143, a mechanical chronograph movement with 4Hz frequency and 42h power reserve - a modular movement based on an ETA calibre.

Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti

Both editions in the Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti will probably be limited to 250 pieces. They've hands-crafted straps mixing rubber and Berluti leather and so are presented in the Berluti bespoke box which contains a whole Berluti leather care set.

Technical Specifications - Hublot Classic Fusion Chronograph Berluti

    Situation: 45mm diameter x 13.40mm thickness - black ceramic or 18K King Gold - Azure very on sides - 50m water-resistant

    Movement: HUB1143 (ETA base) - automatic - 4Hz frequency - 42h power reserve - 280 parts (59 jewels) - hrs, minutes, small second, chronograph

    Strap: rubber with Berluti leather on folding clasp

    Limited edition of 250 pieces, for editions

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TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph Replica Watch

New for 2019, and unveiled during the Geneva Watch Fair, TAG Heuer releases a new model utilizing its proud in-house 02-T manufacture tourbillon movement. The TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon replica watch Nanograph features some unique innovation to the movement, bringing a carbon composite hairspring to replace the Elinvar or silicon versions previously utilized.

Specifications

Brand: TAG Heuer
Model: Carrera Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon Nanograph
Dimensions: 45mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Case Material: PVD coated titanum with carbon composite bezel
Crystal/Lens: Sapphire
Movement: Calibre Heuer 02T Tourbillon
Frequency: 4-Hz
Power Reserve: 65 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Rubber belly with calfskin top leather

Analysis

The 02T movement has arguably been groundbreaking in the idea that it brings a high quality tourbillon into a (more) affordable realm. We saw the movement first emerge a few years ago and reviewed the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer-02T Tourbillon Chronograph here – and we were shocked by the sub-$20,000 price tag. The model was successful to say the least, and I can’t argue with that considering the price for a tourbillon from a major brand is less than some all-steel sports watches without any real groundbreaking features.

Since taking over the LVMH watchmaking division late last year, Stéphane Bianchi’s first major release is this guy, and it’s certainly unique. Carbon is everywhere nowadays, but its utilization for the heartbeat of a watch is a curious one. It’s lightweight, as well as largely resistant to magnetism and shock – claiming a better alternative to “fragile alloy or silicone” hairsprings of previous iterations.

As for the aesthetics, the Nanograph utilizes a hexagon pattern on the dial and rotor – making me want to nickname it the “honeycomb,” paired with its yellow accents. The watch itself is mostly monochromatic, which is a unique choice considering the skeletonized-ish multi-level nature of the watch with its busy dial-pattern. While it appears that the chronograph hands have a yellow-tipped hand, the hour and minute hands do not. I’ll reserve my legibility comments for when we get to go hands on at a later date, but I feel that overall this watch has a cool aesthetic and am excited for the technical advancements to a movement I was already excited about.

Conclusion

TAG has definitely gone through some extensive testing according to their press releases, so maybe we are seeing some major steps forward on an already affordable and popular movement. This is apparently a stepping stone for further developments. Guy Simon, Product Director for the brand says, “the carbon-composite hairspring is a first step that will lead us to yet more in-house improvements still in the process of being developed.” That sounds exciting to me.

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Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 Replica Reloj

Aquí está ... El más grande para Rolex este año, el que celebra el 50 aniversario de la modelo, el nuevo Sea-Dweller Single Red. Más de lo esperado para ser lanzado, Rolex en realidad nos sorprende con un reloj con una referencia de época. Inusual ... Pero, de hecho, además de esta línea roja, hay mucho más que ver en este nuevo Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 replica reloj.

Lo primero es lo primero, Rolex celebra el 50 aniversario de Sea-Dweller, un reloj lanzado como herramienta profesional en 1967, y el primer reloj comercializado con una válvula de escape de helio. Por una vez, Rolex incluye una referencia de época en uno de sus modelos, claramente no es lo que esperábamos, sino exactamente lo que los coleccionistas estaban esperando: un "marinero rojo". De hecho, el nombre del reloj, como en los viejos tiempos, está impreso en ese color rojo brillante que la mayoría de los coleccionistas vintage elogiaron. Sin embargo, además de eso, este nuevo Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 tiene mucho más que ofrecer.

El caso

El caso aquí evoluciona. No está en el material (acero inoxidable 904L), no está en forma (aún es el aspecto tradicional e icónico del reloj de buceo Rolex) sino en tamaño. The Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. De hecho, 126600 mide 43 mm, lo que significa que ha crecido en 3 mm, en comparación con la anterior Sea-Dwelelr 4000 ref. 116600 introducido en 2014, que ya no aparece en el sitio web de Rolex. Para el resto, la válvula de escape de helio se encuentra en el lugar correcto y también el bisel de cerámica, con una escala totalmente graduada de 60 minutos. El Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 es aún resistente al agua hasta 4000ft / 1220m. Cuenta con una pulsera de ostras con cierre de seguridad Oysterlock y extensión de buzo.

En cuanto a las evoluciones, también observamos la aparición de un cíclope en la esfera, algo bastante sorprendente, ya que el modelo nunca se ajustó antes. Muy Rolex en el aspecto, este cíclope seguramente complacerá a los coleccionistas modernos, tal vez a los apasionados de la vendimia. Será una cuestión de perspectiva. Las manecillas y los marcadores son iguales al modelo anterior, por supuesto agrandados para adaptarse al nuevo diámetro de 43 mm. Todos están recubiertos con el material luminiscente de Chromalight azul habitual.

Por último, pero no menos importante, el 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 ahora cuenta con la última generación de movimientos de Rolex, el Calibre 3235, con la reserva de potencia de 70 h, la espiral de Parachrom Chronergy escape azul, el barril de alta capacidad, el tren de engranajes eficiente y el nuevo módulo de cuerda automática. El diseño y el acabado del movimiento también se han mejorado mucho en comparación con la serie 31xx anterior.

El precio

El 2017 Rolex Sea-Dweller Single Red Ref. 126600 estará disponible a CHF 10,800. Más adelante, cuando tengamos las manos en el reloj.

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Introducing The Hublot Big Bang Unico Golf Replica Watch

 

Quick Take

This is an usual watch with a very specific purpose. Created in partnership with Dustin Johnson, the number one ranked golfer in the world, the Big Bang Unico Golf has a newly-developed complication that allows the wearer to keep score of his or her golf game on the fly. On the right side of the 45mm case are two buttons – one adds a stroke to the player's score, while the second advances the game one hole. Down at six o'clock, a running total of the player's 18-hole score is kept with a pair of discs. At eight o'clock is a tee-shaped pusher that resets the whole thing back to zero.

Why This Watch Matters

Sure, this isn't the most practical complication for everyday wear, but there's more to this watch than just that. The case might be large in dimensions – 45mm x 18.01mm – but it's extremely lightweight at just 98 grams because it is made of Texalium, a composite of fiberglass and aluminum, and carbon fiber. The screws are titanium, finishing things off true to form. You can also get a good look at the movement and how it works, as the entire thing is skeletonized.http://www.prowatches.co/hublot-big-bang-c-29_30.html

Initial Thoughts

If I'm being honest, this definitely isn't a watch for me. Between its rather beefy profile and its very specific use for scoring a sport that I do not play, I don't think I'll be strapping one on anytime soon. However, I do think we can learn something from this watch: It's a non-traditional, outside-the-box way of thinking about what a mechanical wristwatch can be, and it's one that is both seriously engineered and not-too-serious in its approach. Those are all things I can definitely get behind.

The Basics

Brand: Hublot
Model: Big Bang Unico Golf
Reference Number: 416.YS.1120.VR

Diameter: 45mm
Thickness: 18.1mm
Weight: 98 grams
Case Material: Carbon fiber and Texalium
Dial Color: Matte black
Indexes: Rhodium-plated hour markers
Lume: Yes, hands and hour markers
Water Resistance: 100 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black rubber strap with white calf leather and black velcro strap

The Movement

Caliber: In-House MHUB 1580 (With UNICO base)
Functions: Hours, minutes, and special golf score complication
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 43
Total Components: 358

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Introducing The Panerai Submersible Carbotech Replica Watch

 

Quick Take

This year Panerai seems to be doubling down on its Submersible line, the toughest, most no-nonsense watches in its collection. The models you see here are classic Submersibles in profile, but they're rendered in Carbotech, a proprietary material based on carbon fiber that Panerai has been using since 2015. There are two models, one 47mm version and one 42mm version, and while the two have different dimensions and different movements inside (the larger model features an in-house caliber while the smaller features a ValFleurier-based movement), the two share the same sleek looks. The matte black Carbotech case is complemented by bright blue accents found in the dial markers, dial printing, and bezel markers, and a blacked-out titanium caseback completes the package. Despite looking all blue in daylight, when seen in the dark the bezel pearl and minute hand actually glow green to make timing dives even easier.http://www.watchesming.co/panerai-replica-c-41.html

Initial Thoughts

Panerai is a brand in a unique position: its product portfolio is, and always has been, based around a relatively strict set of design codes and purpose-driven features. In some ways, this makes it difficult for Panerai to do things that look and feel "new" to those who aren't connoisseurs obsessed with minutiae. In other ways though, this is a serious advantage: there's a lot less whiz-bang nonsense that feels like it's being done just to get attention and a lot more focus on refining things over time and making interesting products that offer new interpretations on classic ideas. These watches do just that, taking a modern-classic Panerai silhouette and giving it a totally new life though innovative materials and a clean, cool color scheme. Personally, I'm into it.

One thing to note: this is not the first Submersible to be made of Carbotech. In 2015 Panerai introduced a Luminor Submersible 1950 Carbotech (PAM 616) that still appears to be part of the brand's current collection. It has a very different look from these new models, with tan accents throughout and a more traditional Panerai-style dial. Whether or not the 616 will be cycled out in favor of these new models is yet to be seen.

The Basics

Brand: Panerai
Model: Submersible Carbotech
Reference Number: PAM01616 (47mm), PAM00960 (42mm)

Diameter: 47mm or 42mm
Case Material: Carbotech case and crown protector, titanium caseback with black coating
Dial Color: Black
Indexes: Dots and batons
Lume: Yes, on markers, hands, and bezel dot
Water Resistance: 300 meters
Strap/Bracelet: Black caoutchouc strap with brushed DLC titanium buckle

The Movement (47mm Version)

Caliber: In-House P. 9010
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Diameter: 38.7mm
Thickness: 6mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 31

The Movement (42mm Version)

Caliber: OP XXXIV (based on ValFleurier ébauche)
Functions: Hours, minutes, small seconds, date
Diameter: 30mm
Thickness: 4.2mm
Power Reserve: 72 hours
Winding: Automatic
Frequency: 4 Hz (28,800 vph)
Jewels: 25

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Panerai Radiomir 1940 Art Deco Dial Replica Reloj 2019

Toma rápida

En su mayor parte, los relojes de Panerai son variaciones de una de las pocas fórmulas. Tienes los arquetipos básicos de Radiomir y Luminor, y cada año la marca encuentra formas nuevas e interesantes de utilizar estos modelos clásicos. Sin embargo, los relojes que tenemos aquí hoy, el PAM 790 y el PAM 791, rompen el molde un poco. El estuche Radiomir 1940 es justo lo que cabría esperar pero los diales de estos dos relojes están inspirados en un reloj de péndulo histórico que se encontraba en la boutique original de Panerai en Florencia. Ambos renuncian a la construcción de sándwich y al lume amplio, optando en su lugar por esferas planas que tienen números de estilo Art Deco, anillos de capítulo impresos y manos ornamentadas y facetadas. Son decididamente de la vieja escuela y un poco más elegantes de lo que estás acostumbrado de Panerai.

Ambos relojes funcionan con el calibre P.3000, que es el movimiento interno de la mano de Panerai. Contiene tres días de reserva de marcha y el acabado tiene una especie de ventaja industrial. Técnicamente, los dos modelos son idénticos, con la única variación es el dial negro o marfil. Cada uno está limitado a 300 piezas.

Pensamientos iniciales

Soy un gran fanático de Panerai, y es agradable ver a la marca experimentar sin dejar de ser fiel a su identidad central. El hecho de que estos diales no se hayan soñado de la nada ayuda a conectar estos modelos a la historia de Panerai y toques extra pequeños como esas manos y el cristal de plexiglás amplía la sensación vintage. Con relojes como este, esos detalles realmente se suman y los llevan al siguiente nivel.

Ahora sé que es una especie de schtick de Panerai, pero realmente me gustaría que estos relojes no fueran de 47 mm. Estos diales en un estuche Luminor Due de 38 mm producirían algunos relojes de vestir genuinos que todavía gotean con estilo Panerai. Esa es, por supuesto, una proposición muy diferente a la presentada aquí, pero un hombre puede soñar, ¿no?Reloj Panerai Radiomir 1940 Art Deco Dial (PAM 790 y 791) Reloj.

Los basicos

Marca: Panerai
Modelo: Radiomir 1940 Art Deco Dial
Número de referencia: PAM 790 y PAM 791

Diámetro: 47 mm
Material de la caja: acero inoxidable
Dial Color: negro (PAM 790) o marfil (PAM 791)
Índices: números arábigos
Lume: Ninguno
Resistencia al agua: 100 metros
Correa / pulsera: correa de cuero con hebilla de acero

El movimiento

Calibre: P.3000 interno
Funciones: Horas, minutos
Diámetro: 36.6 mm
Espesor: 5.3mm
Componentes totales: 160
Reserva de energía: 72 horas
Devanado: herida manual
Frecuencia: 3 Hz (21,600 vph)
Joyas: 21
Detalles adicionales: la manecilla de la hora puede saltar en incrementos de una hora.

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Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Now In Platinum Replica Watch

This year Omega celebrated the 70th anniversary of one of its two emblematic collections, the Seamaster. Born in 1948, made waterproof thanks to the experience acquired with military watches but in a civilian and rather elegant way, the early Seamasters were still gentlemen’s watches – and not the robust, professional tools that most of us know today. At Baselworld 2018, the brand presented an extremely faithful commemorative pair of watches – the 1948 Seamaster Limited Edition – and now we have a more luxurious, highly exclusive version, which has made it to the collection. Meet the Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Platinum replica watch.

Background

The story behind the Seamaster collection is strongly linked to military watches. Between 1940 and 1945, OMEGA delivered more than 110,000 timepieces to the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) for use within the Royal Air Force and its other branches. These watches were valued for their precision, water-resistance and reliability in combat. The end of the war left Omega with great knowledge and experience in manufacturing precise, reliable, water-resistant timepieces. The brand responded to demand for a timepiece containing the same robust technology and reliability, but more aesthetically suited to civilian life. The Seamaster was born in 1948.

Launched in 1948, the Seamaster was the first proper family of watches designed by Omega. Even though conceived on the base of WWII military watches, the inaugural Seamaster pieces were beautifully designed and suitable for civilian use. Yet, they were given greater water-resistance than their military counterparts thanks to Omega’s novel use of the O-ring gasket technology. Two versions were available: a small seconds with leaf hands and a model with central seconds and dauphine hands.

The two watches have been revamped in modern limited editions for the Omega Seamaster 1948 70th Anniversary Collection – two watches that were introduced at Baselworld 2018 and that we reviewed here. Aesthetically speaking, the Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Editions were extremely faithful to the original. Certainly not as compact as before, the proportions remained very much on the reasonable side, with a 38mm case. But if the looks are identical, the technology is all about the 21st century.

As for the inaugural watches launched in 1948, Omega presented two versions: one with small seconds (a bit dressier) and one with central seconds. Differences can be seen on the minutes track, the shape of the hands and, of course, on the movement side – a similar base but with different gear trains due to the different seconds display. Originally crafted in steel and available in 1,948 pieces each, the collection is about to receive some new flagships, with highly exclusive platinum models.
The new Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Platinum

Besides the change of material for the case, the evolutions of these new platinum editions of the Omega Seamaster 1948 are subtle and the overall vintage-oriented design, so close to the original 1948 model, hasn’t been altered.

First and foremost, the cases are now crafted from 950 Platinum – meaning a much denser watch on the wrist. However, the dimensions are the same: a 38mm diameter and 11.20mm (central seconds) or 11.65mm (small seconds) in height. The small seconds version, due to the addition of a few wheels to transfer the seconds from the centre to the 6 o’clock position, is slightly thicker. The cases of the platinum versions retain the same finishing, with mostly polished surfaces and brushed casebands. The straps are also different, and are now made of green or brown alligator skin.

One the back, we find back the same transferred decoration: a Chris-Craft boat and a Gloster Meteor aircraft, a tribute to the aviators and mariners who once relied on Omega’s watches. Even though the material has changed, these watches remain water-resistant to 60m – sufficient considering the rather dressy vocation of these pieces, especially in a noble material. The caseback has the typical patented “NAIAD LOCK” system, with all the inscriptions and decoration perfectly aligned.

Inside the cases of these Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Platinum are the same movements used in the steel versions, however with a solid Sedna gold rotor and balance bridge (something that is always the case with precious metals watches at Omega). The automatic Calibre 8806 (central seconds) and Calibre 8804 (small seconds) are in-house developed and manufactured and feature the METAS/Master Chronometer certification. They are anti-magnetic and very precise, as expected.

Along with the new material, these Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Platinum feature several small updates on the dials. First of all, they are made in Platinum too (as suggested by the Pt 950 inscription below the hands’ axle) and have a metallic, grained colour. Indexes and hands are the same but the small seconds version has yellow gold accents while the central seconds features rose/Sedna gold details.

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Introducing Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Now In Platinum

This year Omega celebrated the 70th anniversary of one of its two emblematic collections, the Seamaster. Born in 1948, made waterproof thanks to the experience acquired with military watches but in a civilian and rather elegant way, the early Seamasters were still gentlemen’s watches – and not the robust, professional tools that most of us know today. At Baselworld 2018, the brand presented an extremely faithful commemorative pair of watches – the 1948 Seamaster Limited Edition – and now we have a more luxurious, highly exclusive version, which has made it to the collection. Meet the Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition now in Platinum.

Background

The story behind the Seamaster collection is strongly linked to military watches. Between 1940 and 1945, OMEGA delivered more than 110,000 timepieces to the British Ministry of Defence (MoD) for use within the Royal Air Force and its other branches. These watches were valued for their precision, water-resistance and reliability in combat. The end of the war left Omega with great knowledge and experience in manufacturing precise, reliable, water-resistant timepieces. The brand responded to demand for a timepiece containing the same robust technology and reliability, but more aesthetically suited to civilian life. The Seamaster was born in 1948.

Launched in 1948, the Seamaster was the first proper family of watches designed by Omega. Even though conceived on the base of WWII military watches, the inaugural Seamaster pieces were beautifully designed and suitable for civilian use. Yet, they were given greater water-resistance than their military counterparts thanks to Omega’s novel use of the O-ring gasket technology. Two versions were available: a small seconds with leaf hands and a model with central seconds and dauphine hands.

The two watches have been revamped in modern limited editions for the Omega Seamaster 1948 70th Anniversary Collection – two watches that were introduced at Baselworld 2018 and that we reviewed here. Aesthetically speaking, the Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Editions were extremely faithful to the original. Certainly not as compact as before, the proportions remained very much on the reasonable side, with a 38mm case. But if the looks are identical, the technology is all about the 21st century.

As for the inaugural watches launched in 1948, Omega presented two versions: one with small seconds (a bit dressier) and one with central seconds. Differences can be seen on the minutes track, the shape of the hands and, of course, on the movement side – a similar base but with different gear trains due to the different seconds display. Originally crafted in steel and available in 1,948 pieces each, the collection is about to receive some new flagships, with highly exclusive platinum models.
The new Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Platinum

Besides the change of material for the case, the evolutions of these new platinum editions of the Omega Seamaster 1948 are subtle and the overall vintage-oriented design, so close to the original 1948 model, hasn’t been altered.

First and foremost, the cases are now crafted from 950 Platinum – meaning a much denser watch on the wrist. However, the dimensions are the same: a 38mm diameter and 11.20mm (central seconds) or 11.65mm (small seconds) in height. The small seconds version, due to the addition of a few wheels to transfer the seconds from the centre to the 6 o’clock position, is slightly thicker. The cases of the platinum versions retain the same finishing, with mostly polished surfaces and brushed casebands. The straps are also different, and are now made of green or brown alligator skin.

One the back, we find back the same transferred decoration: a Chris-Craft boat and a Gloster Meteor aircraft, a tribute to the aviators and mariners who once relied on Omega’s watches. Even though the material has changed, these watches remain water-resistant to 60m – sufficient considering the rather dressy vocation of these pieces, especially in a noble material. The caseback has the typical patented “NAIAD LOCK” system, with all the inscriptions and decoration perfectly aligned.

Inside the cases of these Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Platinum replica watches are the same movements used in the steel versions, however with a solid Sedna gold rotor and balance bridge (something that is always the case with precious metals watches at Omega). The automatic Calibre 8806 (central seconds) and Calibre 8804 (small seconds) are in-house developed and manufactured and feature the METAS/Master Chronometer certification. They are anti-magnetic and very precise, as expected.

Along with the new material, these Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition Platinum feature several small updates on the dials. First of all, they are made in Platinum too (as suggested by the Pt 950 inscription below the hands’ axle) and have a metallic, grained colour. Indexes and hands are the same but the small seconds version has yellow gold accents while the central seconds features rose/Sedna gold details.

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TAG Heuer Monaco Twenty Four Calibre 36 Cronografo (Ref. CAL51111.FC6299)

Presentado por primera vez en 2009 como Monaco Twenty Four Concept, este hermoso reloj fue recientemente resurgido como TAG Heuer Monaco Twenty Four Steve McQueen Calibre 36 Chronograph (referencia CAL51111.FC6299). El nuevo dispositivo de medición de tiempo parece casi idéntico al modelo conceptual, pero viene en un esquema de color diferente y tiene el cuerpo recubierto con PVD intercambiado por un caso de acero inoxidable más práctico (si es que ese adjetivo se puede aplicar a cualquier timekeeper de lujo) presenta una buena combinación de superficies pulidas y finamente cepilladas.

Como su nombre lo indica, el nuevo Monaco Twenty Four está equipado con su movimiento automático calibre 36 interno. Golpeando de forma bastante inusual (solo Zenith usa movimientos tan rápidos en una escala muy grande con su familia de movimientos El Primero) frecuencia de 36,000 semi-oscilaciones por hora, el calibre es bastante preciso permitiendo medir intervalos de tiempo con precisión de 1/10 de un segundo

Este tipo de precisión es probablemente absolutamente superfluo, pero sigue siendo muy bueno para un equipo tan caro (se vende muy por encima de la marca psicológicamente importante de 10.000 euros) que uno de los mejores mecanismos actualmente en uso por las mayores suizas lo impulsa.

A pesar de su velocidad notablemente alta, el calibre dura hasta 50 horas, lo que lo hace bastante cómodo si tiene más de un reloj mecánico, pero no planea usarlo con una bobinadora automática.

Como es habitual en su serie Monaco inspirada en las carreras, el reloj presenta una agradable combinación de materiales clásicos, esquemas de colores vintage y elementos de diseño de alta tecnología, incluyendo una esfera transparente de dos capas y un sistema de absorción de impactos bastante inusual que protege no solo la rueda de escape, sino también el movimiento como un todo.

Como modelo conceptual, el nuevo cronógrafo Tag Heuer Monaco Twenty Four Calibre 36 cuenta con un indicador de segundero pequeño invertido con "00" a partir de las 6 horas, no a 12 como en casi todos los demás relojes. Aunque el diseño puede ser bastante confuso al principio, estoy seguro de que el propietario del cronometrador no tardará casi nada en adaptarse al nuevo diseño.


En cuanto a los colores, no puedo decir que estoy seguro de sus referencias de diseño, pero se parece mucho a la de 1963 Cooper Type 61 Monaco King Cobra: un automóvil deportivo de fabricación británica impulsado por un motor estadounidense V8 de 4.8 litros . Aunque el coche no tuvo mucho éxito en una pista, realmente espero que el Cronógrafo Tag Heuer Monaco Twenty Four Calibre 36 sea más popular entre los verdaderos entusiastas.

Con 40.5 milímetros de ancho, el reloj no es demasiado grande. Sin embargo, la forma en que la caja cuadrada con sus cuernos relativamente largos se mecaniza a partir de un solo bloque de acero hace que se vea muy masiva en una muñeca normal. Sorprendentemente, su volumen es en verdad bastante imponente: hay un cierto aura de presencia masculina sobre este precioso cronometrador, que solo se ve reforzado por sus enormes pulsadores de cronógrafo y su gran corona de ajuste.

Incluso podría argumentar que, a diferencia de muchos otros relojes de estilo similar, este se vería genial no solo con ropa casual, sino también con un traje formal caro. Todo lo que necesitarás es asegurarte de que los colores se complementen de forma orgánica.

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TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Fragment Limited Edition Replica Watch By Hiroshi Fujiwara

TAG Heuer has an ongoing history of allowing external designers and artists to leave their mark on their watches. In that realm of quirky timepieces those official TAG Heuer watches “redesigned” by Japanese artists have their own little microcosm – just think of this remarkable Nendo from 2015 that I have very much grown to love and appreciate. Today, a new piece called the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Fragment Limited Edition by Hiroshi Fujiwara joins that special niche of TAG Heuer timepieces. First things first, I am disappointed that Fujiwara-san didn’t use this opportunity to add “Heuer” a 3rd time to the product’s name, that’s a chance we’ll never get back.

For those like me who didn’t know, the answer is but a quick Google search away for Hypebeast says: “Fragment design is a multidisciplinary imprint [I’ll plead ignorant to whatever that means] by Japanese designer Hiroshi Fujiwara. Fragment design enters many highly hyped collaborations with brands such as Nike, Jordan Brand, Converse, Levi’s (…), NEIGHBORHOOD” and others according to the hype-site. To translate all that into terms we can all understand, it’s a hip brand that I am sure is very much on the radar of those closer to 20 than 30 these days.

So why Fragment and TAG Heuer? I’ll go out on a limb and say this is part of their strategy of placing the brand within sight of their target younger audience – though coming in at just over 8 large ones, I don’t think this watch was meant to be actually had by any of them… Or maybe today’s youth has a lot more to spend on one of their first watches than we had back in my day! Seriously though, I think it’s a smart move, even if hardcore watch snobs are given the chills by the very idea of a historical brand reaching out to anyone without a pension payment due next week.

I wouldn’t worry too much, though. In fact, I’d be losing a lot more sleep over TAG Heuer if it had no idea how to reach out to a younger audience. TAG Heuer is an avant-garde brand and those who are snobby about liking any of the stuff that they had ever made, well, the stuff they fancy and are so protective of at one point or another was novel and new and fresh. Doing new things also means doing things that won’t necessarily work at the time, but just because said connoisseurs live with the luxury of cherry-picking TAG Heuer (or any other brand for that matter) watches from a long-gone era doesn’t mean said brand did not produce plenty of lemons on its way to getting those “icons” right. Furthermore… Sure, you can design watches with Mickey Mouse and Snoopy on them if you want to appeal to the inner 8-year-old of 58-year-olds, but then you’ll still end up selling to the same more, ehm, mature audience without ever popping up in the face-a-gram feed that kids these days are scrolling through fanatically every day.

I am ready to come out and make the admission that I am not a Japanese teen on my morning commute to uni – goodness knows I wish I was –, but I am willing to bet my first grey hairs gifted to me by this industry that those who are in fact fashion-conscious teens with their phones glued to their faces will see this watch pop up in one of their preferred corners of the interwebs; and that is what this 500-piece limited edition is all about for TAG Heuer. It’s two brands becoming associated with both gaining in visibility – and given how very badly the Swiss need to reach out to a younger audience, this is a good, mostly unobtrusive call.

As for the TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer 02 Fragment Limited Edition replica watch itself, it’s basically an old-school Heuer Carrera design with a lightning bolt humping another lightning bolt from behind on its dial. Once you see that, you can’t unsee it – and it’s precisely the sort of dumb stuff that the all-time young generation loves and doesn’t care about – or even care to realize. I’m not being an old fart, that’s just a fact, and it’s all good. The dial also says Fragment on it between the tiny specks for the 4 and 5 o’clock markers, offsetting the whole thing like a poorly placed date window – a ghost in the nightmares of us watch snobs, but then again, nothing to really bother the target audience.

Jean-Claude Biver says “We were more than happy to give him complete freedom with the design.” Despite the humping thing going on and the boasting between 4 and 5 o’clock, I overall like this restrained take on the Carrera – by trending artsy-fartsy designer standards it actually is a muted, almost humble exercise.

The case

The case-back reveals the TAG Heuer Heuer-02 caliber with the aforementioned lightning bolt action going on, along with the same Fragment text present for good measure. It is almost as though the FRAGMENT logo was written into or rather over the Heuer logo – which I guess is pushing it a bit. The text could be on the case-back and the Heuer logo on the rotor, but it’s hard to tell from this confusing image… And when new design elements are this few and far between on a watch, I do have to start looking for these connections. The Heuer-02 movement, although just 6.9mm thick, pushes 80 hours of power reserve along with automatic winding and a vertical clutch and a column wheel – top-tier stuff in this segment.

The case is the humble and much-loved 39-millimeter Carrera case, wrapping a black opaline dial with the inevitable tachymeter scale, beige Super-LumiNova, rhodium-plated, polished and faceted hands, and a white lacquered central hand. There’s a box crystal on the front to add more volume – and add more volume it does. If you watch the video above as opposed to these somewhat dead-looking pictures, I think you’ll agree that this Carrera looks mighty fine, with those polished hands, angled lugs, box crystal, black dial and crisp white print working together in a strange, albeit sophisticated harmony… Though that’s to do more with the Carrera itself than any particular design offspring, the overall design is rather striking, I should say. I especially like the typography on the tachymeter scale – nice, old-school legibility with character but no frills.

Sold with a “powerhouse” leather strap and an additional black and grey NATO strap, I am overall impressed by TAG Heuer being open to these ventures and I do genuinely wish that they will keep doing it. I do however much prefer the Nendo Edition from 2015 because it had a much, much more unique character that really pushed the limits… and cost almost half the price.

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Hublot Lanza El Reloj Big Bang Unico Sapphire Transparente

Si hay una acusación regularmente formulada en Hublot, es por el gran volumen de ediciones limitadas que produce, anulando la idea de que una edición limitada es mucho más exclusiva y, por lo tanto, mucho más especial. Bueno, aquí hay una edición limitada de Hublot, se están produciendo 500 piezas en todo el mundo, que realmente es exclusiva: un reloj que es prácticamente transparente. Contemple el Hublot Big Bang Unico Sapphire replica reloj.

En 2012, Richard Mille produjo el primer reloj revestido de cristal de zafiro: una serie de cinco modelos RM 056 con un precio de alrededor de £ 1 millón, con casos difíciles de fabricar a partir de bloques de cristal sólidos que rompieron varios muy caros. máquinas en el proceso. Han seguido unos pocos relojes más Richard Mille, mientras que en enero de este año Hublot nos mostró algo bastante notable: una versión del mega reloj La Ferrari con una caja de cristal, convertida en una burbuja notable y prístina alrededor del movimiento francamente loco.

Pero para Basilea, la marca presentará la serie más extensa de relojes enchapados en zafiro, habiendo trabajado con un especialista suizo para crear las piezas necesarias. Las tres partes de la caja, el bisel, el medio y la parte posterior, están cortadas en bloques de zafiro, mientras que los tornillos, la hebilla desplegable y la corona están hechos de titanio, este último sobremoldeado con silicona. Las orejetas están hechas de una resina compuesta transparente.

Encerrado en el silicio se encuentra el movimiento cronógrafo Unico de Hublot, en un estilo que da un nuevo significado a la frase "trabajo abierto". Aunque Hublot no lo menciona en el comunicado de prensa, al observar de cerca la imagen siguiente, sugiere que incluso las manos y las marcas mismas son transparentes y están decoradas con lume; de ​​hecho, el reloj puede ser más fácil de leer en la oscuridad que a la luz del día .

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Replica TAG Heuer Heritage Calibre Heuer 02 1972 Autavia Viceroy Re-Edition Watch Reviews

Here’s a fun fact about the Heuer Autavia in 1972: it wasn’t initially a good seller. But its slow acceleration to popularity – no thanks in part to a timely sales promotion with Viceroy cigarettes – does little to diminish the fact that it was, and still is, one of the best-looking automatic chronographs ever made. And after a pair of early Autavia reissues in 2016 and 2017, TAG Heuer‘s heritage collection has finally tapped into the Viceroy inspiration with the Heuer Heritage Calibre Heuer 02, a special re-edition of that sporty 1972 classic.

The movement

As a portmanteau of “automotive” and “aviation,” the Autavia first appeared in 1933 as a dashboard-mounted clock and stopwatch for race cars, boats, and aircraft. It wouldn’t take form as a wristwatch until nearly 30 years later in 1961 when Jack Heuer introduced the first Autavia watch with the signature rotating bezel – a first for Heuer at the time. As mentioned, TAG Heuer’s heritage line has already revisited versions of those earliest Autavias, first with the Calibre Heuer 02 (reviewed here by Ariel), then with later with a limited-edition variant built to celebrate Jack Heuer’s 85th birthday. But both of those editions are paying homage to manually-wound chronographs in the Autavia archive. This watch is the first time we’re seeing a re-edition of an automatic version – the first of which appeared in 1969 equipped with the new Cal. 11 movement.

As the story goes, there were two key automatic Heuer Autavias from the early seventies, and Heuer collectors know them both quite well. Crown on the left, pushers on the right. A stainless steel tonneau-shaped case with a black dial and twin bi-compax white registers, completed by a framed date aperture at 6:00. One special version could be purchased at a considerable discount through Viceroy, by mailing in the boxtop from a carton of the brand’s cigarettes. This special variant embellished the standard 1163 a bit, adding red inserts and red triangle tips to both the brushed steel hour and minute hands. The Viceroy edition also came fitted with a tachometer bezel, rather than the more desirable and functional 60-minute/12-hour bezel. Everything else between the two versions – case, Cal. 11 movement, applied dial markers, etc. was otherwise the same.

TAG Heuer seems to be leaning into the sportier partnership variant for this reissue, but with a few light updates – namely with the bezel, which is a bidirectional 12-hour aluminum bezel with oversized numerals, differing a bit from the original which overlaid both 12-hour and 60-minute scales on the same bezel. It’s an odd choice to use a different bezel than the source material, given that the minute/hour variant has already been reproduced in the Jack Heuer edition. But it’s likely a deliberate one – ensuring the new Viceroy is more ‘inspired by’ than a direct reissue of the original.

The case

It also borrows the same chunky case silhouette as the other Autavia re-issues that we’ve already seen, measuring 42mm wide and around 17mm thick. Inside beats the Heuer Calibre 02, an automatic column wheel chronograph with 75 hours of power and a 4Hz beat rate. Since it’s just a twin-register design, the running seconds counter at 6:00 has been omitted, while preserving the 30 minute and 12-hour counters at 3 and 9:00, respectively. The silver-framed date window at 6:00 persists here – and for once, its presence helps balance out the dial, preserving the integrity of the original.

Purchases of the watch will include a neat book called Inside Track, by Phil Hill – the only American-born race car driver to ever win the Formula One World Drivers’ Championship, which he did in 1961. Published in 2017, TAG Heuer Heritage Calibre Heuer 02 1972 Autavia Viceroy Re-Edition replica watch,the book is something of a goldmine for car culture fans, exhibiting an intimate look into Hill’s illustrious career as both as a driver, and a photographer who personally documented the inner circle of the golden era of motorsport.

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