The new Aquanaut Chronograph Ref. 5968A comes in a 42.2 mm x 11.9 mm diameter stainless steel case and represents Patek’s first Aquanaut Chronograph, and really, apart from the Pilot collection, is one of the few timepieces that sit outside of the company’s mostly traditional lineup of watches.
Sure I love the 5170 Chronograph, and the 5711 Nautilus is impossible to get right now. But that does not take away the fact that they are smaller, dressier, traditional fitting watches, which often end up on the wrists of older collectors.
The Aquanaut Chronograph, with orange accents on the dial – is a much-needed departure from this. Designed for a more active wearer who does not always wear a suit. And it’s refreshing to see, even if the price point is insanely high and perhaps not attainable by the younger generation that it presumably targets – it at least offers a new direction and perspective. Besides, it’s a Patek, so if cared for correctly, it’ll likely maintain or increase in value over time.
Personally, I love the clean and easy to read design of the dial, the beautiful gray satin-brushed sunburst finish, and the simplistic 60-minute chronograph counter at 6 o’clock. By the way, the chronograph is of the more complicated flyback variety, meaning you can reset the chronograph while it’s still running, as opposed to needing to stop, reset, then restart – the way you have to with a conventional chronograph.
Driving the hours, minutes, date, and chronograph functions (60-minutes/60-seconds) is a 4Hz automatic, caliber CH 28-250 C, which is a flyback chronograph with a column-wheel and vertical clutch disc, the latter of which prevents a rebound of the seconds hand in either direction when the chronograph is started. Additionally, according to Patek “because the clutch is virtually friction-free, the chronograph hand can be used as a continuously running seconds hand.”
The movement
The movement measures 30 mm x 6.63 mm, is finished with circular Geneve stripes and circular graining, and has 13 bridges, 32 jewels, and 305 total components, including a 21K gold unidirectional oscillating weight. Maximum power reserve is 55-hours. Water-resistance is 120 meters. Each Aquanaut Chronograph comes with both black and orange rubber straps, fitted with signed steel folding clasps.
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